Saturday, December 27, 2008

Morning in the "treg" (think farmer's market!)



We spent this morning looking for American style bacon in the treg right next to the Stephen's Center cafe, where we had a wonderful breakfast---waffles, eggs, bacon, toast,hot chocolate. After eating their bacon, we asked where they purchased it, and they pointed us to the next square over in the treg at a proschute and salame place called Hako. These are some of the colorful sites along the way.

The traditional New Year's meal in Albania is turkey, and there were turkey's everywhere this morning. Last year one of our missionaries was invited to New Year's dinner, and was given the honor of killing the turkey, which was done by slitting it's throat in the bathtub. Speaking of grisly things, much of the slaughter takes place right on the streets, usually on Sunday's. When the meat stores advertise "fresh meat", they really mean it! (Posted by Marty)

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Singing in the Qender Christmas Eve

Motra Neil organized a wonderful Christmas eve activity with all the Tirana missionaries, young adults, and other branch members. There must have been 50 of us all together. We drove into the center of the city, beneath the giant statue of Skanderbeu, and after meeting up with everyone else who walked, we set up with several tables (nicely draped with red tableclothes), tracts and Books of Mormon, and a large picture of the Savior. We also brought a guitar and a small battery operated keyboard. After handing out Liz's homemade collection of all the translated Albanian Christmas carols (eight of them), we started singing, as loud as we could, because in the open air, and without amplification, the sound doesn't carry very far. As we sang hymns, missionaries did street contacting and wished passers-by a Merry Christmas.


I don't know that we sounded very great, but it was wonderful fun! We did have to take a few minute break, when the mosque right behind us began broadcasting the call to prayer (adhan)---they had major amplification!

The center has a very large, decorated Christmas tree, not too far from where we were singing...in fact, Christmas decorations are eveywhere! But, to our surprise, we learned that it's all about New Year's here. (It's not a Christmas tree....it's a New Year's tree!) They give gifts on New Year's as well. And, they do fireworks! So much so, that we instruct the missionaries to be in their apartments by 5 PM New Year's eve, and not to come back out until the next day----it's dangerous to be on the streets. (By Pres. Neil)

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Gate Keepers












If the Assistants happen to be outside when we're loading up the car to exit the mission home grounds, they run to the open the gate for us. There they stand at attention with stone faces like they're Secret Service. They look up and point at the windows and roof, speak into their "watch radios" and salute us as we drive past. This morning as we exited to visit the Tirana 3rd Branch, we noticed a large group of men standing at the lokalë (cafe/bar) across the street (just out of view to the right) watching our little exit ceremony. We laughed and wondered who they think we are to deserve such respect!

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Whew, What a Week!

Monday: Loads of preparations for Zone Conferences. I assembled 60 of these refrigerator magnets as a Christmas handout. The words are by Marvin K. Gardner from the song "Room in the Inn" by Vanja Watkins. My daughter Erin stamped and embossed the small manger cards for me before we left the states, and I cut and assembled the cards based on her design.

Tues., Dec. 9: We were invited to attend a concert with the Grimci's (District Presidency) of "The Tenors," an Albanian version of the famous "Three Tenors" concerts. It was not exactly high culture, but entertaining none-the-less, and the featured tenor from Italy was excellent, as was the orchestra. Also featured was an aging, bleached-blonde soprano from Italy who waltzed out in a slinky red dress with a fox-fur cape. She was all shtick and schmaltz, and had a knee-length vibrato. Cultural events here are very inexpensive to attend. Our tickets cost us $10 each and they were front-row seats!

Wed., Dec 10: An LDS family gave us second row tickets to the National Opera where the husband and wife play violin. It was a trio of "short" Puccini operas. "Short" is relative when it comes to opera, and we left after two and a half hours, missing the third opera. The Opera House is a concrete building, built in 1963. It is unheated, and there was cold air blowing on us throughout the performance. Fortunately, I brought a scarf with me which I wrapped around my neck and head, with only my eyes peeking out. My feet froze, though. If we hadn't been so cold, we could have enjoyed the excellent singing more!

Thurs., Dec. 11: Mulek Zone Conference. A real spiritual highlight of the last six weeks. My preparation included a Power Point presentation on cleaning apartments. I modified a presentation my friend Sandra Ludwig gave when her husband was president of the Greece Athens Mission. O.k., so that wasn't spiritual--but it was necessary! New Year's Day is a huge holiday here and follows a night of merry making and crazy fireworks, so the missionaries are staying inside for most of the day to "make a fresh start by deep cleaning their apartments." I also put together a missionary musical number; cinnamon rolls for the break; and a beef stew lunch for 34 with Christmas-decorated tables and large Christmas-tree cutout cookies for dessert. Marty gave two presentations, including one he developed with the Assistants on our vision of how we can have a stake here by mid-2011. They call the project "Korab," which is the highest mountain peak in Albania, and compares climbing a high mountain to the work and faith we need to accomplish our goal of a stake. Then the Assistants showed a beautiful slide show they developed of Christ's life in art, from birth to resurrection, with an accompaniment of a choir singing Mack Wilburg's "My Shepherd Will Supply My Need.

"The Sisters ended up at one table. You can see we dress to be warm here! One sister at this table told me she had on four pair of tights! The weather has been fairly mild, but the cold is a damp cold which chills to the bone, and it sometimes seems colder in our concrete and tile buildings than it is outside.

Fri., Dec. 12: Lehi Zone Conference. Same presentations, cinnamon rolls for break, and cutout sugar cookies, but for the "outside" zone we hire two women (both former caterers) to cook the lunch.

We left before the lunch because we had to get back to Tirana to take a dozen missionaries from the inside zone to the U.S. Ambassador's residence to sing carols at his annual Christmas reception for the embassy staff. They sang beautifully, but Marty said it was like missionary work: "Only a few people listen." The ambassador, John Withers, II, was most appreciative and the finger food was very American and very delicious. Marty had six or seven deviled eggs.

Sat. Dec. 13: Our 40th Wedding Anniversary. Marty gave me a beautiful Swarovski crystal angel. He had meetings until 2:15 and then we had lunch at an American cafe. It's not far from the mission home and it's the only place in town you can get a real hamburger and mexican food. Then we drove to the big QTU shopping center which is outside the city and hit the EuroMax supermarket to stock up on groceries.

While at the grocery store, I was waiting for the clerk to weigh my bananas (you bag your own produce, but it has to be weighed and tagged before the main checkout), when a man stepped in front of me with his produce. This has happened to me several times in lines and at elevators, and as Marty has told me, "You can't show weakness!" Actually, he was talking about driving when he said it but I decided I'd had enough and blurted out, "Excuse me!" in Albanian. He motioned for me to go ahead, but I'll bet he doesn't get challenged often, as this is a "men first" culture.

It was pouring rain and we didn't feel like doing much that evening, so we stayed in and watched a movie on our new Sharp Aquos, 32" screen, High-def, LCD, 1080p TV. Actually, this was an anniversary and Christmas present to ourselves and it replaced a small 20" screen TV that was here when we moved in. Well, we did need something bigger on which to show the missionaries General Conference, didn't we?! It will be our gift to the mission home.

Sunday, Dec. 14: Church in the little unit in Kamez, a suburb of Tirana. 19 people in attendance: two elders, Marty and me, the Vogli family of five who were the visiting speakers, one member and nine investigators. Pictured is the wonderful Vogli family. Brother Vogli is the man who sculpted our marble bust of Christ as a surprise gift. He also carves the marble name plates on our branch buildings. I'm going to teach Ester, who is eight years old, piano lessons. This was a very sweet Sacrament Meeting. Elder Monson and Humphreys are doing a wonderful work in Kamez.
After church we took a drive part of the way up Mt. Dajti (pronounced "Dyetee") which is directly to the East of Tirana. There is an aerial tram that you can take most of the way up the mountain, but I don't think I'll be getting on it unless they drug me first. Marty and Elder Shupe say they'll take it while Sister Shupe and I sit in the cafe below and drink hot cocoa. Marty is standing on one of the many concrete bunkers on the mountainside.


It's going to be what the missionaries call a "White Christmas" in Albania, due to all the baptisms scheduled for Christmas day. We're expecting as many as 25 convert baptisms in December, many of them coming from a little branch in Shkodër, which has had missionaries for only a year or so. Things have exploded following the baptisms of Adriana and Toma as they are wonderful member missionaries! (See Adriana's story below in Marty's post "Two Convert Stories.")

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Christmas Calendar


My sister Virginia sent me this beautiful gift-filled calendar for the days of December, perfect for this spot in our living room. She found eight sheer curtain panels with pockets at a garage sale, and creative person that she is, immediately thought of how it would be a great advent calendar. Each pocket has a beautifully wrapped gift, sized specially for that pocket, a scripture card to help you guess what is inside, and a Christmas gift card that can be placed in the pocket so it continues to look festive as the gifts are taken out and opened. Also included in each package is a small ornament which goes on the little twig tree pictured here. We've been sharing the American candy and fun little gifts with the missionaries and they think my sister is something special! I gave one to my piano student Jona, (pronounced Yona) and she was thrilled, and carefully opened the metallic paper so she could save it.

Friday, November 28, 2008

We are Thankful...


  • for a glorious, sunny Thanksgiving Day.
  • for Tony and Heidi Baird, an American LDS couple with four young children. Tony works at the U.S. Embassy, and offered to get some turkeys for the mission when the Embassy ordered some for their employees. The Baird's generously donated cans of pumpkin, stuffing mix, and cranberry sauce to the cause.
  • for folks back home who sent brown sugar, oatmeal, graham cracker crumbs, etc. so we (three mission couple wives) could give the missionaries a taste of home cookin'. (The oatmeal was for the dessert of apple crisp which we served along with pumpkin chiffon pie, apple pie, and pumpkin bread. Think we overdid it?)
  • that the frozen turkeys arrived a week and a half early so we had time to distribute them to the three couples in the most distant cities for their dinners.
  • for five non-American missionaries, Elder Rispoli of Australia, Elder Abley of England, Sister Kennedy of England, Elder Harline from Canada, and Elder Çelaj of Albania, who were perfectly happy to join in our American tradition of stuffing the face...I mean turkey. AND, we can't forget to mention Elder and Sister Müller from Switzerland, who cheerfully cooked a traditional Thanksgiving Dinner in Durrës for 13 missionaries, five days before they leave us and return home.
  • for beautiful choral Christmas music which I listened to at high volume while I raced about the kitchen all morning. Motivated me like an athlete getting pumped up for the championship game of a lifetime. I threw open the windows and let the street hear, also. Whooeeeee!
  • for the oven and cooktop that didn't burn up (not to mention the kitchen) even though a terrible smell like burning electrical wire insulation filled the apartment.
  • for Sisters Newhouse and Shupe who helped me prepare dinner for 34 people. We filled a 20-quart electric roaster with mashed potatoes--and the missionaries cleaned the pot! We had only a portion of the four turkeys left over and a couple pints of gravy.
  • for my mother who taught me how to make a darn good Parker House Roll.
  • for Marty who cheerfully washed up countless pots and pans over three days. Nothin' finer than a man with a dish towel slung over his shoulder.
  • for Skype. It is wonderful to have the technology available to video chat with our family. It brings them so much closer to us. If we had to wait for a two-week old letter, we'd feel much farther away from home.
  • for the hand of the Lord in our lives today. We are grateful to be serving Him in a foreign land. We missed our family on this traditional family day, but we know they were thinking and praying for us, as we were for them.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

One Year Ago

On the drive to the Durrës branch this morning, Marty mentioned that it was a year ago that he was called to be a Mission President. We've been so busy that we've hardly noticed the time flying by. We are grateful for this opportunity to be serving the Lord in Albania with 50 outstanding young men and women, and five wonderful couples. The selfless service and goodness of the missionaries is a constant inspiration to us. We appreciate the support we feel from our friends and family back home, and are grateful for your prayers on our behalf and for missionaries everywhere in the world.