Shopping for a big meal is not a quick trip to the store or to Costco, like it is back home, so I start planning and shopping two or more weeks ahead. Often my menu is based on what I can find in the markets. Here's what happened last week:
We plan a half-day shopping trip and head out of town toward the QTU shopping center. Down the rruga Durrësit we stop at the German Store where parking can be difficult to find, but we luck into a really good space around the block. The German Store is a popular place for expats. We hope to find cheddar cheese, which is unavailable elsewhere, and the very excellent Mövenpick raspberry jam, of which Marty insists we keep an ample supply. They have the cheese (yeay!) and buy three half-kilo blocks (17.6 ounces) for $12 each. I'll grate and freeze it for zone conference. To stretch it, I'll mix it with shredded gouda. The German Store also carries flour tortillas, six to a package, and I pick up five packages. Sometimes they have Marshmallows for $4.50 a bag, but that's a bit too pricey for me.
I decide to have chicken wraps for Mission Council lunch, and Taco Salad for Zone Conferences.
We drive out to the large EuroMax at the QTU mall outside of Tirana, where I can get large bags of German-made tortilla chips, and purchase several bags for the Taco Salad. I can also get canned kidney beans there. I also buy large vacuum packed packages of roasted peanuts and dried, diced pineapple to make trail mix as part of a mid-morning snack for Mission Council. However, the large bags of M & M's I like for the trail mix are only available only at the Conad stores. I notice that Schmand (sour cream) is stocked again at the EuroMax after being gone from the shelves for a month or two. We've learned that if you see something you like on the shelves, you'd better purchase more than you need, because it may not be there the next time you're shopping. Sometimes the EuroMax has evaporated milk, and other times it does not.
As long as we're out past the city, we continue to drive out the highway to the new City Park Mall. There is a Mercator Hypermarket (comparable to a small WalMart Supermart) at the mall which I like to check for new items. This day we find freshly packaged, shredded carrots which will be good for the chicken wraps. It is the only place we can find "soft" toothbrushes, also. The Mercator has packaged powdered sugar, but it's still not as finely powdered as in the states.
At the City Park is a Rossman & Lala (German) sundries store which carries small boxes of Oreo Cookies, a treat for us. We rarely buy Oreo's back home, but when we see an item common to the States that is generally unavailable here, it seems much more tempting. They also have Palmolive dish detergent. There is an ice-skating rink at CityPark and it's fun to sit, have a hot chocolate (cacao), and watch the skaters.
We head on back into town and are fortunate to find a parking spot in the pay lot next to the Conad store on the Lana (river). This is where I can get the best meat, so I purchase several pounds of ground beef. Food prices have skyrocketed in the past few months--the ground beef is almost $2.00 more per kilo. I also pick up four packages of sliced chicken breasts for the wraps for Mission Council lunch, and sliced Gouda cheese. I also find nice Iceberg head lettuce and bell peppers, which we rarely see. I forget that I need to bag the cellophane-wrapped lettuce, weigh and tag it, so the checker has to call someone to run back and weigh it for me.
Conad is the only store that carries small jars of Skippy Peanut Butter, Rice Krispies (for that rare time I had marshmallows and could make Rice Krispie treats for the missionaries), whole grain bread, hamburger buns, Ritz Crackers, Kikkoman Soy Sauce, frozen diced onions, and our favorite Müller yoghurt.
In December, the Conad had dried black-eyed peas and the German store had bottled pickled beets, so Marty was able to have his traditional New Year's Day dinner. I used "instant" polenta to make corn bread.
The freshest produce is not in the supermarkets, but at the many stands around town. Sometimes produce is simply sold on overturned crates along the streets. The produce stands (treg) at the end of our street cater to the poorer population that lives in our area of town and the fruits and vegetables are often old, or not as high quality as I can find elsewhere. If I want really nice produce, I go to the "Italian" produce stand on the Myslym Shyri road, so if Marty is heading down to the chapel near there for a meeting, I'll go along so I can shop there or at other stands along the street. Parking is really difficult in that area of town.
Bananas, a favorite fruit since it was unavailable during the communist era, are sold all over town, sometimes on overturned cardboard boxes along the street.
If I need powdered milk, I need to go to a bulk store. It's a very small shop that has staples like flour, oatmeal, and nuts of many varieties in large bags and boxes and you can purchase however much you like. There are three that I shop, as one may have something that another doesn't. Last week, I found bagged dark brown sugar at the bulk store on the Rruga Elbasanit, and sometimes they have small pecans. The bulk store on the Unazë (Ring Road) has the dried milk I need for bread and rolls, and cheap paper tableclothes. Another bulk store has corn tortilla chips and taco sauce. Now, if only someone started selling fresh corn tortillas!
The Mission Council lunch was today, and the chicken/vegetable wraps were a big hit.
Two box-style stores have opened in Albania. The German company Praktiker has opened a large store in Kamez, a suburb of Tirana, and out of town on the main highway, at the turnoff to the airport, there is a new MegaTek. Both are do-it-yourself Home Depot-style stores, but they also carry furniture and decorative items. It is so nice to be able to purchase things for our apt. in one place, where previously we would have had to shop several different stores.
A curiosity here is that similar kinds of shops will be close together along one road--all selling the same items, and for the same prices. At the produce treg at the corner, there are several vendors under one big awning, but it is not considered polite to try to undercut your neighbor. You can only sell for a different price if your fruits are larger. Prescriptions and even many over-the-counter drugs like aspirin have to be purchased in a small pharmacy where a prescription is not required for antibiotics or other strong drugs. The Rossman & Lala store offers many of the personal hygiene items that our Long's Drug Store in California sells, but cannot sell any form of medical ointment, pain reliever, or other drugs.
There are thousands of small clothing shops in Tirana, and they have a tough time making it. We walk down the street, and notice that overnight a store has disappeared or changed.
Everywhere we see efforts at modernization, but are reminded by the farmer driving his donkey cart down the freeway, that Albania has a lot of catching up to do.