Happy Birthday to Marty!

Nothing like having two elders knock on your door at 7 a.m. to sing an energetic alternative "Happy Birthday" song to their president! ("Alternative" meaning like one that is sung by waiters in restaurants.)

Zone Conferences

We just concluded two amazing Zone Conferences which were part of a mission tour by Elder Erich Kopischke of the Seventy, and a member of the European Area Presidency. He stayed with us in the mission home for 3 nights, then left right after our mission council to catch a plane to London where he had to reorganize a Stake. (And I should mention that Elder Kopischke thought Liz's breakfast Smoothies were "brilliant"---to quote the British).He taught us a lot and I think it will revolutionize our mission! We are a Preach My Gospel mission, but we learned there are some things we can still work on (when Elder Kopischke was Berlin Mission President, implimenting teach to find, and really working with members, changed it from 0.3 baptism per missionary per year to 2.0 baptism per missionary per year). So, now we start doing some of the finer points---3 short lessons a week, daily contact, pray on the first lessons (which means we'll have to stop teaching in lokale's--bar's), and teach to find. Teach to find will be a big cultural change since it's teaching from the very start when contacting, and that's not what we currently do. But the most important thing is what we need to do on the member side to have them take more responsibility for helping the missionaries with retention, teaching, and fellowshipping. Five years ago, there were 500 on average in Sacrament meeting across the mission. After baptizing maybe 700 over the past 5 years, we now have about 500 in Sacrament meeting across the mission. If we and the members don't do something differently, we'll still have about 500 in Sacrament meeting 5 years from now. (One very urgent need is to be creative in helping them with employment as we lose a lot of members to other countries seeking employment. We discussed the possibility of finding a missionary couple with experience in new business creation to be called to Albania with a "venture" fund to help some of our young people start up businesses here---anyone interested??.) We've held mission council meetings, and just yesterday, an all district leaders meeting, where we've created a vision of what we believe can be in 3 years, and a plan of what we need to do to achieve it. Everyone seems very excited about doing this, which is to have 5 units ready to be wards in 2011 so that a Stake can be formed. So, now we embark on a very aggressive training program thru the Assistants, Zone Leaders, and the District Leaders to make an already wonderful set of missionaries even better! And, Elder Newhouse and I start working with our District Presidency and the branch presidents on the member side.

One of our members is a young student at the university in Tirana who joined the church a little over a year ago. He turned his papers in to serve a mission, and was called to serve in Albania. A little over a week ago, he called me and said that he wouldn't be able to serve a mission because of family problems and that his father had left for Greece. Then just a few days ago, he came to the office and I had a chance to hear the whole story. His father had sold a little land to a very good friend, who said he'd pay him later. After some time, still no payment. A couple of weeks ago, he and his friend were in a lokale (bar) drinking, when the topic of payment came up. The friend got angry and said to stop bringing it up all the time. The argument escalated to the point that his father hit his friend over the head with a beer bottle, and sent him to the hospital. (He was in a drunken rage.) Fearing revenge, the father fled the scene to southern Albania, where he then walked for over 14 hours at night thru and over the mountains into Greece, where he's now staying illegally with relatives. But, in this country revenge can be taken out on any member of the family, so his mother and other siblings are all fearful of what may happen. I counseled and urged him that he immediately visit his father's friend in the hospital to ask forgiveness, to make restitution, to offer whatever it takes (like forgiving the debt on the land) to make things right. He just shook his head and said that it doesn't work like that in this country. I hope I can persuade him to give it a try (and that he can do it without personal risk)...otherwise, I don't know what the future is for this family.

The Charme Salon

Well, I got my first hair cut in Albania today. With fear and trepidation I had Marty drive me to town to the Charme Salon that was recommended by Sister Newhouse. I had to walk through a courtyard and up some dark stairs to this little doorway. I felt like I could be entering some kind of gambling den and half expected someone to open a little window in the door and ask for my pass code. Surprise!--it turned out to be a really nice salon. The amazing thing about Tirana is that you might climb over garbage to get to someone's home or store, but inside will be immaculately clean and usually very nice, no matter how small. I think Addi did a good enough job. I usually like my hair cut better after I fix it myself, but whose complaining--it only cost $10--plus a $2 tip. Tips aren't expected, but since the cut cost a fraction of what I pay in the states, I decided to tip. My hair is pretty short, so I may not have to spend another $10 until after Christmas.

There were many very fashionable and beautiful ladies in the salon, and all were smoking. I was afraid my hair would go up in flames when Addi used hair spray on me, and now that I'm home, I smell like I came out of a gambling den.

Busy, Beautiful Week

Tuesday was transfer day. Four missionaries were "dying" (missionary jargon, meaning leaving the mission--they're "born" when they arrive) so they were given long exit interviews by Marty, were feted with an open house (I'm responsible for simple refreshments), testimony mtg., and dinner in our apt. Then the elders slept on foam pads in the office and a sister in our guest room. We left for the airport at 3:00 a.m. so they could catch their 5 a.m. flights. We were as sad to see them leave as they were to go, and they felt like they were going to a foreign country--the U.S.! It occurred to me that each had just spent one tenth of his life in Albania.

We arrived back home to catch maybe two hours more sleep, and then awoke to prepare for the new missionaries arriving at noon from the MTC--four sisters and four elders. As I caught a peek of them through the sliding door into the baggage claim area, I spontaneously clapped my hands with joy. They (almost) could have been my own kids coming to see us. They are an amazing group, filled with enthusiasm, unity, and excitement to start their missions--mingled with just a little anxiety. A few had their initial interviews with Marty and we fed them a big pancake supper, with smoothies (so glad I brought my VitaMix) and fresh-made chunky applesauce (no applesauce in Albania, but lots of apples) and "maple" syrup made with Mapleine. We took pictures, and stayed up late to e-mail each missionary's parent to show their son or daughter had arrived safely in Tirana. This morning after breakfast, we took them to the Mother Albania monument, high on a hill with a beautiful view of all of Tirana and the mountains that surround it. This is the spot where Elder Dallin H. Oaks stood in April of 1993 to dedicate Albania for the preaching of the Gospel. It was a gorgeous morning, and the sun was coming up behind the large monument, very much like the morning described in Elder Oak's dedicatory prayer. We sang a hymn (good singers in this group), prayed, and Marty read the dedicatory prayer. Then he asked each of the missionaries to take a few minutes to be by themselves to think about consecrating their efforts to help realize the blessings of that prayer for the people of Albania. Except for a woman sweeping the parking lot with a palm frond and two old gentlemen who seemed to enjoy the singing, we had the park to ourselves. We took a few pictures and left the park. The missionaries took a trip to the police station to show papers and register, and we spent the rest of the morning finishing up interviews and training at the office. The trainer missionaries arrived, we had a pizza lunch, and then the President (Marty) announced the new companionships. The new missionaries were so nervous and excited to meet their first companions, you could just feel the electricity in the room. Cheers went up and it was a very exciting moment for each. They were given big Albanian hugs and kisses (kisses on either cheek for women, left cheek first--this is important!) side to side forehead touching for men-- without the kisses, and they all flew out of the building to catch taxis or furgons to their areas, feeling very welcomed (we hope) to the mission. Marty sent off second emails and pictures to the parents telling where and with whom their son or daughter had been assigned, I threw a batch of towels in the washer (barely dented the laundry pile) and we both collapsed, exhausted. Exhausted, but spiritually high.

YSA Conference, Sept. 22-24, 2008

The Young Single Adults of Albania, ages 18-30, held a conference in Durrës, at the Tropicana Beach Hotel with a huge swimming pool and nice beach. Due to unusually cool and rainy weather we had only 28 youth come, when we were expecting 50. One of our couple missionaries, the Monson's had arranged the conference, but had to leave their mission early because Sister Monson was having some serious health problems. The Mueller's, from Switzerland, carried on where the Monson's left off and did a fine job. The theme of the conference was "Developing and Using Your Talents." Marty and I spoke at the kickoff devotional Monday at the Durrës chapel, and stayed for workshops and lunch. We went to the hotel on Tuesday morning where I directed a Hootenany (folk song singing) with the entire group. I was worried about it, as all my songs were in English and I didn't know if the youth would be able to "let their hair down," or if they would be self-conscious and inhibited. We sang rounds and silly songs like "Little Tom Tinker," "I Love the Mountains," "Music Alone Shall Live," "If You're Happy and You Know It...," etc., and the group really got into it and had a great time. Turned out only two or three in the entire group did not speak English, and I passed out word sheets so even they were able to sing. I asked some youth about Albanian folk songs that we could sing, but no one seemed to know any. Perhaps that part of the culture disappeared with Communism.

The weather cleared Tuesday so the youth were able to have beach activities. We returned to the hotel Tuesday evening for the dinner dance and more youth showed up for that event. In addition to the standard fast and slow couple dancing, we were treated to a show of traditional Albanian line dancing.

At the conference we met the Sweeny's, an expat couple who live in Kosovo and work for the U.N. They came on a long bus ride from Pristina with Burim, a single adult convert. The Sweeny's hold Sacrament Meeting each week in their home for about 10 people. Burim joined the church after meeting Liz Shropshire, a young LDS woman from the U.S. who brought music to the Albanian refugee camps. Sister Shropshire's amazing story was profiled in the August, 2006 Ensign article "Noteworthy Service." It can be found in a search at lds.org. Burim now works for Sister Shropshire's music foundation in Kosovo. Kosovo is under the jurisdiction of the Slovenia mission, but currently no missionaries are serving there.

Address & Phone Numbers

Here are our addresses and phone numbers in Tirana:

For mailing USPS Express Mail packages (expensive--but they come directly to the mission home in 3-4 days):

President or Sister Neil
Fondacioni Liahona
Rr Qemal Stafa Vila 1
(Përballë Postës 22)
Tirana, Albania

For mailing Priority Mail packages or Airmail letters (less expensive, takes two weeks):

President or Sister Neil
Fondacioni Liahona
P.O. Box 2984
Tirana, Albania

Skype i.d.: liznmarty
You can easily sign up for a Skype i.d. for free at skype.com
Calling from Skype to Skype (computer to computer) is free. Skype to our land line is next cheapest, a few cents a minute. Some computers have built-in cameras and microphones, so we can video or audio chat. Otherwise, you need to get an external microphone & speakers or headphone with microphone.

Land Line: 011-355-4-236-5472 (includes the country and city code)
President Neil's Cell: 011-355-68-202-5995
Sister Neil's Cell: 011-355-68-203-5330

July 21-Sept. 21

These two months have been marked by grief and joy--two extremes, but then that's life, isn't it? My father passed away on July 25, and I flew to the states to attend his funeral in Provo. It was a beautiful funeral attended by all but one of his grandchildren--and he was on a mission in Guatamala. I was able to be with all our children and almost all of my extended family. Dad was a well-known scientist, who made a big difference in the world with his synthetic diamond discovery, but to me he was just "Daddy." I'm grateful he's been released from his suffering and is with Mother and his parents again.

We've been on our mission for exactly three months--in Albania for all but one of those weeks and we're gradually getting used to things and learning our way around. I've struggled on and off with a gastro-intestinal bug, but Marty has been well--a good thing since his service is much more in demand than mine. I've been treated with two rounds of giardia pills (Tinidazole) and an antibiotic, and hopefully this time the treatment sticks.

My email was not working for about a month. I could receive but not send, so I apologize for my lack of correspondence. For a time I was sending, but didn't realize you weren't getting my mail. Sorry.

Here are a few of our activities--from the mundane to the miraculous:

-On August 20-24 we flew to Frankfurt and attended a Mission President's Seminar with the new combined Europe Areas. The seminar was in Bad Homburg, and it was so beautiful there. I reveled in the flowers, clean, tree-lined streets, and parks. We have a wonderful Area President in Robert Oaks, and we were taught by him, Elder L. Tom Perry, and Elder Ronald Rasband. We were treated to a Rhine Cruise one afternoon. I brought home a souvenir--a new G.I. bug, or the return of the old. This time I went on antibiotics after losing another 8 pounds. Y'all might not recognize me. Marty brought home a new paper cutter for the office in his luggage.

-Marty plays basketball with the missionaries and an investigator (does that count for missionary work?) three mornings a week. I worry he's going to get hurt. It's starting to get too dark in the morning, though, so he'll have to choose a new activity for exercise. They have to climb over a fence to get to a school outdoor court, and a few times a guard has extracted a little bribe.

-Marty attended Girl's Camp (I was having one of my "episodes") and it was very successful. One of the young women lost her cell phone--the one she wasn't supposed to bring--and the non-member father was furious with the Church and leaders. Marty and the others there debated what to do, thinking that letting natural consequences take their course would be the best, but decided instead that mercy should prevail and took up a collection to help her buy another phone. The father's heart was softened by the kindness. (A $50 cell phone is a huge thing to lose in a country where the average wage is $7 a day!)

-While Marty was away at Girl's Camp, we had a major flood in my kitchen/living room, caused by a not-so-competent dishwasher installer. It was a huge disaster and took me, the assistants (not usually in their job description) and our office sister, an hour and a half to mop it all up. I used about 25 towels to create a dam, so it only inundated the kitchen and kitchen carpet and didn't reach my new digital piano. Took me and Sister Newhouse three days to get the towels washed. The elders carried the 8x10 rug to an outside balcony railing to dry for three days.

-Marty drove to Elbasan for church last week. Again, I had to stay home. We had awakened to a terrific thunderstorm, and he was worried about the roads. To get to Elbasan you have to go over a very twisty, winding road, which goes along the crest of the mountain for a bit. There are spots where you can look to either side and see straight down. I do not like this drive at all! He said it only took him 90 min., while if I had been there it would have taken him 2 hrs. The rain had washed boulders onto the road so it was a little nerve wracking for him. The good thing was that because of the rain he wasn't worried about the legless man we've been told about, who sometimes lays in the middle of the road to stop drivers and extract a fee for the privilege of passing. Apparently he picks a narrow spot in the road, so you can't get around him. After church Marty gave a blessing to a young girl who was starting school, and there were two baptisms after church that day (in an inflatable font). When he arrived home, we attended two other baptisms in a branch in Tirana. We've had baptisms every Sunday, and Marty and I have to choose which to attend. Two of the baptisms last month were fathers of two of our full-time missionaries. Miraculous!

-We attended and spoke at our first District Conference. Saints came from the far-away branches by bus or furgon and we met in a rented Academy of Arts auditorium. There is only one district in Albania. All our missionaries sang "I Need Thee Every Hour" in Albanian and English for a closing hymn.

-Marty gave closing remarks at the local maternity hospital for a neonatal resuscitation training program that was organized and staffed by church service missionaries. The Church has trained scores of doctors and nurses, who in turn train others, and has donated thousands of resuscitation bags, trying to save some of those million babies who die each year from not breathing spontaneously after birth.

-I missed the first zone conferences when I was in Provo, so this last week I experienced my first ones. Whew! Besides having to speak and attend, I made cinnamon rolls for the morning snack (with bananas), and cooked lunch for 34. I prepared and froze ahead about 6 kilos of hamburger (Marty helped) for spoon tacos, and diced 15 tomatoes, shredded 4 heads of lettuce, grated cheese, etc. for toppings. I froze several quarts of Banana Slush for a drink (with 7-up), and baked four batches of Snickerdoodles and Chocolate-chip Cookies. The missionaries loved the lunch, and want banana slush to be a "tradition" at zone conf. HA! I cook for one of the two zones. We hire two sisters to cook a simple meal at the other and I brought cookies. I gave one of 12 Power Point presentations on health and safety that the Church has prepared for us to give at zone conferences. I chose the one on stomach problems and proper handling of food. I'm not the only one suffering here. Next time I'm going to do the one where the first point is "Don't do stupid things!" I'm not making it up!

-I started bringing homemade cookies to the monthly interviews that Marty has with each district. I've made SOOOO many batches of cookies. May have to make it more of a random thing or I'll go through too many bags of brown sugar. Received a generous supply of the precious stuff from a thoughtful friend, though, and that will keep me for quite a while.

-There are two reception/party halls at the end of our street, and Sunday is wedding day in Albania. The wedding party and family decorate their cars with streamers and balloons, and honk merrily as they wind through town following the new bride and groom. (Well, actually people don't need a wedding for an excuse to honk. I found myself honking like crazy when I was driving in Utah. It's the thing to do, here--just to let people know you're there, or to tell them the light has changed.) Little gypsy boys pound on drums as they make their way to the busier parts of town to beg for coins from autos. Quite a din on the street during church today!

-Marty flew to Athens yesterday to attend a conference and accidently left his cell phone home. Elder Christensen, who had already arrived at the hotel in Athens, thought to ask about Marty's reservation, and the hotel didn't have one for him. (Our office sister had booked a room online and Marty had a confirmation number, but apparently the reservations people never contacted the hotel.) Elder Christensen called (Marty's cell--I answered) to see if Marty was booked at another hotel. I told him no, so he reserved the last remaining room for Marty. Later, the hotel clerk told Marty that there were big tours and conferences in Athens, and there were no available rooms anywhere. What made Elder Christensen, who doesn't even know Marty, think to ask about a reservation for him?

-I've become a hoarder of plastic bags. Like my mother did, I wash out my Zip-Loc bags and reuse them--many times. I sent a few Costco packages in our shipment, and they have become precious as they are not available here.

I promise to post more often, so the posts won't be so long. Love to all.